College Summer Road Trip in the Deep South

The summer I turned twenty, I decided I was tired of red dirt roads and wheat fields. Tired of calf roping on weekends and the same two cafés in town swapping out the pie flavors like it was big news. Tired of being known by everyone before I even opened my mouth. So when finals ended at my small college in rural Oklahoma, I loaded my old Honda Civic with a cooler full of Dr Pepper, a duffel bag of clothes, and a Rand McNally atlas that still smelled like my dad’s shop. I didn’t have a plan beyond “head south.” I figured if I got lost enough times, I might find something worth keeping.

The day I left, the morning heat had already started its slow chokehold on the plains. I rolled down the windows, let the wind slap me awake, and pointed the car toward Texas. The highway stretched out like a dare. I took it.

Four hours later, I crossed the bridge over the Sabine River into Louisiana. The air turned thicker, as if someone had soaked it in motor oil and humidity. By Shreveport, my shirt clung to me like a nervous kid. I wasn’t used to air that pressed back.

South of town, I stopped for gas at a truck stop where the sign read “Boudin & Biscuits.” I bought both. The biscuit was dry, the boudin was perfect, and the woman behind the counter called me “baby” without even looking up. It felt like a welcome.

My plan that day was to make it across Louisiana and into Mississippi by sundown, but the swamps had other ideas. The road dipped between cypress trees hung heavy with Spanish moss, the sky deepening into a purple bruise. I pulled off at a scenic overlook—though it wasn’t clear what was scenic about a stretch of murky water dotted with the occasional alligator—but I stood there anyway, listening to the chorus of insects warming up for their nighttime performance.

A pickup truck rolled in behind me, and two men climbed out—thick accents, sunburned skin, baseball caps with fishing brands. One of them nodded at me.

“You lost, cher?” he asked.

“Maybe,” I said. “Depends what counts as lost.”

They laughed like I had told a joke. One of them pulled a couple beers from their cooler and offered me one without ceremony. I took it. The swamp hummed around us, thick and alive.

We talked about fishing and storms and how Oklahoma wasn’t the same as Texas no matter how many tourists thought it was. They told me they were from down near Houma, Cajuns from generations back. They talked fast, half in English, half in a musical blend of French and something else entirely. I nodded when I could; mostly I listened.

“You gon’ melt out here,” the taller one said. “You stick around too long, the skeeters’ll make a meal outta you.”

“Probably already did,” I said.

He grinned. “Then you fit in just fine.”

I finished my beer, thanked them for the hospitality, and hit the road again as the last light died. The swamps breathed darkness. Somewhere far off, thunder grumbled like an old man shifting in a recliner.

By the time I crossed the Mississippi state line, the night was so heavy it felt like driving through ink. I rolled the dial on the radio, trying to find anything not static. A preacher’s voice burst in, loud and urgent: “AND THE FIRES OF JUDGMENT SHALL LICK AT THE HEELS OF THE WICKED!” I kept it on for a while, partly because it kept me awake and partly because it felt right for a lonely drive over the Delta’s flatlands.

I reached the Delta proper just past midnight and decided I needed to stop before I fell asleep at the wheel. The first sign I saw was for a place called Eddie Mae’s Juke Joint, a flickering neon sign on the side of a sagging building with a gravel lot and a porch crowded with people smoking. A hand-painted sign said: “Live Blues Tonight.” That was enough.

Inside, the air vibrated. A man on stage with a steel guitar was bending notes that sounded like the floor of the earth cracking open. His voice was a gravel road soaked in whiskey. People swayed, stomped, leaned over their beers like they were confessing sins to them.

I took a seat at the bar. The bartender was a woman in her fifties with hair piled high and gold hoops the size of bracelets. She poured me a cheap bourbon without being asked.

“You look like a boy who ain’t seen a real juke joint before,” she said.

“Am I that obvious?”

“Baby, you practically shining. Folks around here don’t walk in smiling unless they lost.”

“Is being lost a bad thing?”

She shrugged. “Depends why.”

The man on stage slid into a slow, aching melody, something raw enough to make my throat tighten. The bartender sighed.

“That there’s Clarence ‘Catfish’ Porter,” she said. “Been playing longer’n you been alive. Man’s fingers talk better than most folks’ mouths.”

I listened. She was right.

Two hours slipped by. Time didn’t work the same in that place. It stretched and curled like smoke. When Catfish finished, the crowd hollered, and he nodded like it was his birthright.

I left with the sound of his guitar still buzzing in my ribs.

At 2 a.m., hungry and bone tired, I found the only place open for miles: a Waffle House glowing bright as a UFO in the Mississippi dark. I parked beside two pickup trucks and a sedan with stickers for every local church.

Inside, the cook and waitress were arguing about whether the Elvis impersonator who came in on Sundays was actually good or just enthusiastic.

I took a seat at the bar. Two older women sat at the booth nearest me—both in floral dresses, both wearing church hats despite the hour. They had purses big enough to hide spellbooks in. They eyed me like they’d been expecting me.

“You traveling, sugar?” one of them asked.

“Yeah,” I said.

“Heading where?” the other asked.

“Not sure yet.”

They exchanged a knowing look.

The first leaned in. “Everybody who comes in here lost at this hour ends up exactly where they supposed to.”

I wasn’t sure if that was comforting.

They told me they were “Mojo Ladies,” which I assumed meant fortune tellers or something similar. They didn’t explain. They didn’t need to. One of them reached across the table, took my hand, and squeezed it.

“You carrying something heavy,” she said. “But you ain’t ready to set it down yet.”

“I didn’t say anything about—”

“You ain’t gotta. It’s in your eyes.”

The other nodded. “Whatever you looking for, baby, you gon’ find a piece of it in Georgia. Mark my words.”

The cook slid my waffle onto the counter. The Mojo Ladies sipped their black coffee like prophets in polyester. When they left, they pressed a peppermint into my hand like it was a talisman.

“This’ll keep the road kind,” one of them said.

I didn’t believe them. But I kept the peppermint.

I slept a few hours in my car outside the Waffle House, waking to the sunrise stretching over endless fields. Mississippi bled into Alabama, and suddenly I was driving past cotton fields that rolled out like white oceans. The plants rustled in the wind, soft and restless.

I pulled over and walked to the edge of a field. The cotton was thick, fluffy, deceptively gentle-looking. I’d read enough history books to feel a weight in my chest staring at it. The past wasn’t past here. It stuck to the air, to the ground, to the way the fields seemed too quiet.

I stood there a long time before driving on.

A few hours later, just outside Tuscaloosa, I stopped at a barbecue joint where a young trucker in a red Ole Miss cap sat next to me at the counter. He had a grin like he’d been born laughing.

“You ain’t from around here,” he said.

“Nope,” I said.

“Oklahoma? Arkansas? I’m guessing Oklahoma.”

I blinked. “How’d you—”

“You got that panhandle twang. I hear it all the time at the truck stops.”

We talked over pulled pork sandwiches. He told me he’d been driving long hauls since he turned nineteen, and that fall Saturdays belonged to one thing only.

“Ole Miss football,” he said. “That’s church, brother.”

I said something about how Oklahoma folks felt the same way about the Sooners, and he waved me off.

“Yeah, but y’all got actual expectations. We mostly got hope. Both’ll kill you, but hope’s slower.”

When we parted ways, he slapped my shoulder.

“You keep drivin’ till something feels right,” he said. “That’s what my daddy always told me.”

I wasn’t sure if it was good advice, but I wrote it down later anyway.

Georgia rose up with red clay shoulders and thick forests. By dusk I was deep in the rural stretches, following roads so empty I wondered if I was the last person alive. The radio crackled again with a preacher proclaiming the end times. I switched stations and found a conspiracy theorist rambling about UFOs above Atlanta and lizard people running Congress. I switched again and found another preacher, even louder. Mississippi stations traveled farther than they had any right to.

At one point, the sky lit up with silent lightning behind a cloud line. It looked like God taking photos of the earth.

I pulled into a clearing outside a small town whose name I never saw. A group of old men sat around a fire pit beside a weathered barn, laughing and passing around a mason jar. They waved me over like I was late.

“You look thirsty,” the oldest one said. His beard was pure white except for a streak of brown under his lip from tobacco.

“What’s in the jar?” I asked.

“Confidence,” another said.

It burned like the surface of the sun. I coughed so hard they laughed until they cried.

“You ain’t from anywhere near here,” the bearded one said.

“Oklahoma,” I said.

“That far enough.”

We talked about fishing, baseball, the way the South had changed and not changed. They told stories of moonshining in the 70s, stories involving revenue agents and narrow escapes and more than one dog named Blue.

When I left, they slapped my back like a nephew going off to war.

“Atlanta’s that way,” one said, pointing down the road. “Get yourself a ball game. Braves are home this week.”

I hadn’t planned on it. But maybe the road had.

I reached Atlanta the next afternoon. The skyline rose like a jagged promise. I parked near the stadium and bought a last-minute ticket from a guy holding a cardboard sign. It was overpriced. I didn’t care.

Inside, the crowd buzzed with energy. The Braves were playing the Phillies, and the stadium lights made everything look sharper than real life. I found my seat between a father and his teenage son on one side and an elderly woman with a scorecard on the other.

As the game started, I felt something settle in me. Maybe it was the rhythm of the game, the crack of the bat, the rise and fall of the crowd’s voices. Maybe it was the way the sunset painted the sky above the stadium in bands of orange and pink. Or maybe it was simply the feeling of having come from somewhere and gone somewhere else, collecting pieces of strangers along the way.

The father next to me cheered so loud he startled the kid. The elderly woman muttered about missed calls like she could curse an umpire into reason. The team hit a home run in the sixth inning, and the stadium roared. I roared with it.

For the first time in months—maybe years—I felt part of something bigger than myself, something moving, alive, full of possibility.

When the game ended and the crowd flowed out into the humid Georgia night, I walked slowly to my car. I didn’t know where I was headed next. I didn’t need to.

The road had been right so far. That was enough.

I dug into my pocket and found the peppermint the Mojo Lady had given me at the Waffle House. I unwrapped it, popped it into my mouth, and let it dissolve as I drove into the night, windows down, the city lights fading behind me.

Wherever I was going, the road would know before I did.

And I trusted it now.